Why are my utility bills increasing???

  1. Turn your thermostat down in the winter and up in the summer.
    Being reasonable, an ideal indoor temp in the winter is 68°F. The money saver is turning it down to 62-64°F when sleeping or away.
    In the summer, aim for 76-78°F. Have fans blow air out during the day and blow in during the night. 
    Personally, I actually set my temps lower in the winter and just put on an oldman sweater (I am told this makes me a hipster).

  2. Kill the energy vampires.
    Anything plugged into your outlets is using energy, even if it’s not being used for anything. I see this all the time when I use thermal imaging during my home inspections (which is included in all inspections). Empty powerstrips, chargers, extension cords make heat=energy=$$$. 
    Unplug the printer, electronic drumset, especially the coffee maker that has heated water on demand (looking at you Keurig). If you have outdoor receptacles that you only use in the summer, turn the breaker off for these during winter.

  3. Water-Heaters (not called Hot-Water-Heaters, also not called Cold-Water-Heaters).
    Please understand that setting these lower has its benefits but also can present dangers. It’s a good idea to listen to the manufacturer of the tank about what temp to use. Lowering does have financial rewards and helps you and your family from getting burned. Some “experts” say to lower your tank temp to 120°F; this will save money but can also lead to a development of a type of bacteria called Legionella Pneumophila (Legionnaires’ disease). 
    Because of this, other experts say to set the tank to 140°F but have a mixing valve to lower the delivered water temp to 120°F.

  4. Dryer stuff.
    A dryer duct full of lint has to use more energy to push warm air out, this really adds up. A really easy way to clean a dryer duct is to disconnect  the duct from the dryer and use a leaf blower to blow all the lint and debris out through the dryer outdoor termination, no other disconnected needed; easy-peesy. 
    Also, dry towels separate from clothes; these dry differently and keeping them separate is more efficient.

  5. Replace your furnace filter on time.
    Also, use the correct filter. It would seem that a higher MERV rating means “better for your house”, but it doesn’t. Too much filtration can hinder airflow, causing more obstruction than planned for right off the bat. Listen to your furnace’s manufacturer on which filter to use. Clogged filter=busier system=more $$$.
  1. Caulk.
    Caulk does not last as long as most people think it does; it has to be replaced periodically. “When” depends on the location and type. That is a blog post for another time. But, update your window caulk, you can do this yourself. Although I struggle to make it look good, I get it to work (especially in those areas no one sees).
  2. Winter Window Insulation Plastic Film Kits.
    These are probably towards the top of the most annoying things I deal with (same list as those tailgating truck drivers in the fast-lane with their brights on), but I promise they have ‘clear’ results. 
    I can obviously tell the difference between the years I do and do not use them. According to my cats, the view becomes compromised and isn’t worth having, so they remove them for me and leave me with the bill.
    But, for real, these work. They create an air gap that is used to further insulate windows, believe it or not, air is an excellent insulator. 
    Some tips, use a mid-percentage rubbing alcohol and clean the trim before using the tape. Before removing the other side of the double side tape, let the tape sit for at least 12 hours, this helps it bond to the trim more and removes “some” frustration with the tape peeling off as you’re peeling off the other side.

  3. Is your attic access door insulated?
    We lose a lot of heat here and oftentimes, it’s not insulated. The hatch itself has gaps that allow air out, review this entire area for cost savings. 

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